fusible sur Heart Interface 2 (Xantrex depuis)

Effectivement, c'est rare!
Jamais vu de fusible sur un fil de shunt!
Si pour une raison quelconque le shunt n'est plus opérant, l'appareil grillera très vite. 2 A c'est énorme au niveau de la mesure!
Il est plus probable que le fusible aurait dû être monté sur l'alimentation de l'appareil.

Un câblage de shunt est généralement fait de trois fils torsadés pour limiter les interférences.
Deux (le "+" et le "shield" (blindage)) sur la borne shunt du côté de la distribution, un (le "-") sur la borne shunt côté "-" de la batterie. On peut aussi câbler sur le positif avec certains appareils.

merci tili merci piep je re regarde ce soir
le fil d'alim part de la batterie 2 et celui la je le connais et je l'ai repéré, le fil dont je parle est gros au début il y avait le porte fusible puis devient mince comme doit l'etre le shunt , il n'y a pas d'autre fil qui parte du plus de la batterie 1
ça été monté par un chantier sérieux à chicago, je pense qu'ils avient une raison de metrte de un fusible (enfin je ne sais plus avec vos explications !!)

J'avais un link 20 également
Son montage était conforme au schéma fourni par Tilikum. A savoir, trois fusibles sur les "+" des voltmètres et sur l'alim. Il n'y en avait pas sur les shunts. Si tu es sûr de ton coup, à savoir que le fusible serait monté sur la paire torsadée du shunt, c'est une aberration. Il faudrait une coupure du shunt pour y voir une quelconque utilité (l'intensité passerait alors par l'appareil qui grillerait à coup sûr).
En fonctionnement normal, sur un gros appel, le shunt est calibré 50mv/500A. Il fait donc 10(-4) Ohm et peut encaisser de fortes intensités. Tu dois par ailleurs avoir des protections sur tes circuits de distribution pour limiter les conséquences d'un court-circuit franc sur le 12V. Cela ne sert à rien de protéger le circuit de mesure en dérivation du shunt. Xantrex ne l'a pas prévu.

manif de ouf pour re calibrer de la part de l'ami américain
avant de trouver facilement la cause de mon pb j'avais aussi intérrogé le forum Béneteau US, un m'a envoyé une manip qui pourrait intéresser les tops électriciens, c'est un maniaque de la précision en tout ce type, ci dessous donc comment retrouver le zéro absolu sur un Link 10 ou 20, ça prend une heure à 2, je ne vois pas trop l'intéret, on peut utiliser set et sel pour cela meme si c'est moins précis, en gros il faut un truc de labo qui donne 40 volst précisément , la suite en anglais, croyez pas qeu ej vais traduire cela !

Problem Background:

Since day one my Link 20 had an error in current measurement of -0.2A on
both channels (battery banks). My starting battery reading was -0.2A even
when the starting battery positive was isolated. On the house bank, with
everything switched off (including the main electrical distribution board),
the reading was fluctuating between -0.2A and -0.3A, because the Link itself
was using a bit of power.

-0.2A does not sound like much of an error, I can hear you say, but in just
one week this adds to -0.2 x 24 x 7 = -33.6Ah of false discharge readings.
In my case (just got new AGM batteries), no amount of charging would get the
Ah reading back up to zero, because the charging current would eventually
drop to 0.0A - 0.1A and the only way to "start over" was to manually reset
the Ah to zero.

Needless to say, I double and triple checked the wiring. During the
installation, I'd used the original Xantrex supplied cable packing 4
twisted pairs, the length of the wiring was not excessive (23 feet) and the
wire did not run along any AC cables or similar sources of interference. It
was obviously a calibration error, or more precisely a "zero offset
instrument error".

How to fix it:

Before you go any further, you'll need a stable and precise source of 40.0V
DC. That seems to be the safety Xantrex built into the unit to prevent
accidental calibration. I found an electrician who agreed to lend me a
variable DC power source from his shop. You may know someone at a computer
shop, electronics lab, university, etc. You'll also need an accurate digital
voltmeter to confirm that you're supplying exactly 40.0V DC to the unit
during calibration, but these days it shouldn't be a problem - any
reasonable digital voltmeter will do.

Important Notes:

1. This procedure has not been obtained directly from Xantrex, but it worked
   for me exactly as described on my Link 20. I hope it works for you too, but
   you're doing it at your own risk.

2. Any temporary wiring connections you make during the calibration setup
   should be firm and the electrical terminals clean.

3. This procedure will completely reset your Link 20, so you'll need to
   re-program any user defined parameters (e.g. battery bank capacity & type,
   Peukert's exponent, etc.) back into it. You will also lose the history from
   the unit.

Connections to make:

1. Pull out the fuse on the Link 20 power supply red wire and check that the
   unit is off.

2. Make sure the variable DC power source is switched off.

3. Connect the negative of the variable DC power source to the small screw
   in the middle of the load side of the shunt where the Link 20 black ground
   wire is connected (screw them together into the shunt).

4. Disconnect the blue wire (Bat. 1 voltage sense) from the house bank
   positive and the violet wire (Bat. 2 voltage sense) from the starter battery
   positive and connect them together and to the positive of the variable DC
   power source. Leave the fuses in those two wires.

In steps 3. & 4. you have effectively rewired the Link 20 to measure the
variable DC power source voltage instead of the voltage of your batteries.

1. Disconnect the orange wire (Bat. 1 current sense battery side) from the
   side of the shunt and connect it to the green wire (Bat. 1 current sense
   load side) on the side of the shunt (screw them together into the shunt).

2. Disconnect the yellow wire (Bat. 2 current sense battery side) from the
   side of the shunt and connect it to the brown wire (Bat. 2 current sense
   load side) on the side of the shunt (screw them together into the shunt).

In steps 5. & 6. you have effectively shorted the current sensing circuits
on both battery banks, thus simulating zero amps conditions. This is
necessary because you will be calibrating the instrument for zero amps.

1. DO NOT CONNECT THE RED LINK 20 POWER SUPPLY WIRE TO THE VARIABLE DC POWER
   SOURCE, leave it connected to your house bank.

2. Connect an accurate digital voltmeter to the positive and negative of the
   variable DC power source.

The calibration itself:

1. Ensure Link 20 is switched off (fuse out on the red wire).

2. Ensure the voltage control on the variable DC power source is turned down
   to zero or minimum.

3. Turn the variable DC power source on and slowly increase the voltage
   while observing the reading on your voltmeter - adjust the voltage to
   precisely 40.0V DC. DO NOT EXCEED 50V DC!

4. You may need someone to help you with this step if your Link 20 is
   mounted far from the batteries. Push both Sel and Set buttons on the Link 20
   and replace the fuse on the power (red) wire while those buttons are still
   pressed, only release them when the unit powers up. In other words, power
   the unit up while pressing those two buttons, then release them.

5. You should now be in the "calibration mode": the "V" and "A" lights on
   the Link will flash alternately, the "t" light will also be illuminated and
   the display should be showing the voltage from the variable DC power source.

6. It is not possible to proceed from here no matter which buttons you press
   until the voltage on the display is equal to or exceeds 40.0V (40.0V -
   40.4V). If necessary, further adjust the voltage from the variable DC power
   source to exactly 40.0V DC and when ready hit the Sel button on the Link.
   You're now done with the voltage calibration.

7. You should now be in the current calibration mode, indicated by the "A"
   light being illuminated on the Link 20. The display should now be showing
   the small current offset error.

8. Using Bat1 (offset -) and Bat2 (offset +) buttons, fine adjust the
   display reading to 0.00 and press the Set button when ready.

9. The previous step needs to be done 4 times: Bat. 1 low amps range, Bat. 1
   high amps range, Bat. 2 low amps range and Bat. 2 high amps range - every
   time fine adjust the display to 0.00 using the Bat1 (offset -) and Bat2
   (offset +) buttons and when ready confirm by pressing the Set button.

10. Press Set again to enter the display test. All LEDs except the two on
    the right for each bank should be illuminated. The display sould be showing
    ±188.8

11. Press Set again to exit the display test and the calibration mode.

12. The Link should now be in the "normal" mode, displaying the 40.0V from
    the variable DC power source. Press Sel and Bat2 to confirm that the current
    readings are now 0.00A for both battery banks.

13. Remove the fuse from the red power wire to turn the Link 20 off.

14. Remove all temporary connections and the variable DC power source and
    connect all voltage and current sensing wires to their proper place, as they
    were before. Protect them from corrosion.

15. Replace the fuse in the red power wire to turn the Link 20 on and check
    for proper operation.

That's it, you're done. It sounds complicated and perhaps a bit daunting,
but in reality it only took me about an hour to do, including the mop up in
steps 13 - 15. To repeat the calibration, you will need to repeat steps 1.
to 12.

My Link 20 now works accurately, as per Xantrex's published specs. After
recharging, the batteries now show a small positive Ah reading, which gets
wiped off once the discharge begins.

Fair winds,

Dan

J’ai la doc à bord, j y serai la semaine prochaine

La doc est très complète